Earlier this week, Elshan Tang's
Zelos Watches launched pre-sales for the Hammerhead, an aggressively
styled, automatic diver's watch with some truly exceptional options. I
have not laid hands on one, but having reviewed the Zelos Helmsman, Chroma, and Abyss,
I've got a good feel for the company's quality, and no reservations
about recommending them. The Hammerhead looks like yet another winner.
Micro brands seem to take one of two approaches when building their model lines. The first treats
each watch as a unique piece, experimenting with different styles and
creating a great variety of looks. The second approaches each new watch
as an extension of an overarching theme, incorporating similar design
cues throughout the line that will identify each was being part of the
brand. Elshan is clearly traveling the second route, for even as he
experiments with new architecture and materials, the results are
unmistakably Zelos.
Like other Zelos divers, the
Hammerhead has a large, chunky case with a sculpted form, but where
other models have used round cases with scalloped or cut away sides,
this one is a substantial cushion with multiple facets creating an
elongated octagonal shape. It measures 44mm wide, 49mm long, and a
towering 17.5mm tall to the top of its domed, anti-reflective sapphire
crystal. A fat, deeply grooved, screw-down crown occupies the 4 o'clock
position. It promises to be a commanding piece. Water resistance is an
impressive 1000m. Interestingly for such a deep diver, there is no
helium release valve (HRV), and I think this is a good thing as they are
only necessary for commercial saturation diving. Their popularity on
most dive watches as of late has more to do with fashion than function.
The movement is the tried and true Seiko NH35 automatic (24 jewels,
21.6k bph).
In typical Zelos style, the dial is a
two layered affair, with a brushed sunray effect on the primary layer
and tall applied hour markers. The outer layer carries the minute track
and is entirely coated in BGW9 lume. Its semi-skeletonized hands,
engraved bezel, and hour markers are C3 SuperLuminova, as is the signed
crown – a feature first seen on the new NTH. Is this a new micro brand
trend? I certainly hope so. It is a mighty cool detail.
The Hammerhead is available in a
brushed stainless steel or bronze case. Stainless versions come standard
on a 22mm chiseled link bracelet secured with a push-button clasp with a
wetsuit extension, while the bronze ships on a rubber strap. Both
feature a 120-click unidirectional timing bezel with a square-toothed
edge.
Now, as we get into the colors and
options, things get really interesting. Both steel and bronze versions
are offered with a ceramic bezel insert (Zirconium Oxide, by the way,
with a hardness rating of about 1500 Vickers). The bronze models also
offer an all bronze bezel. The steel case can be had with a bezel of
stunning Damascus steel, created by a process of folding and forging
that forms an intense wood grain like pattern through the metal.
You may choose from blue, black or
grey dials, but the truly adventurous might opt for meteorite. Yes, the
kind that falls from the sky. This one is from the Muonionalusta
meteorite in Sweden known for its unique Widmanstatten Patterns, formed
over millions of years of slow cooling.
Zelos is staging pre-orders in
batches of 20. As each batch sells out the price will increase by $30.
The Hammerhead is currently going for $430, or $599 for the Meteorite
and Damascus specials. For information, or to order your own, visit ZelosWatches.com.
Photos courtesy of Zelos Watches
Nessun commento:
Posta un commento